Charlie Schreiber

"I am in love with the fact that every move is different and every hold is a small piece of art, every boulder is a sculpture that embodies different choreography to feel it’s story and lesson."

Questions

1. When do you start climbing?

I started climbing in 2007, when I was 13 years old. I thought that the Gravity Vault in Upper Saddle River, NJ was still the old Skatepark it used to be, and I was a skater in need of a new helmet. I was surprised to see rock climbing walls when I walked in, but was absolutely blown away by what laid before my eyes. I tried it, fell head-over-heels in love after my first time up the wall and have only fallen more and more in love every day since!

2. What do you do when you are not climbing? (Other hobbies/ sports)

When I am not climbing, I am working as a full-time climbing coach and route setter at my local gym, High Exposure Climbing. In my FREE time, I create art and especially love sketching with pens. I spend the weekends traveling with Girlfriend, eating new and interesting foods, stretching and exploring movement and mobility of the body, and taking hikes on new trails throughout the country!

3. If you had to name one thing that gets you totally psyched about climbing, what would that be?

The artistic creativity behind each boulder problem and route. I am in love with the fact that every move is different and every hold is a small piece of art, every boulder is a sculpture that embodies different choreography to feel it’s story and lesson. I am obsessed with the art of route-setting and unlocking intricate sequences when I work boulders. I can get psyched on crazy power problems, coordination moves that need to be executed perfectly, delicate slabs, and very technical, tension dependent problems.

4. What is your most memorable comp?

My most memorable competition was the Tri-State Championships back in 2017, when I took 1st place by topping all 4 of the boulders infront of my youth team kids, my home-states, a huge supportive crowd, and a live-stream audience! I competed alongside my great friends and made some new ones. All of the problems were a ton of fun and unique! I had trained so hard that season, and to have it all pay off with a win at the season’s finale was a dream come true.

5. What is the most memorable climb/ boulder problem that you have ever completed or attempted? (inside or out or both)

Without a doubt, Karajo (V11) on the Carriage Road in the Gunks in New Paltz, NY. Karajo was the first boulder I saw when I walked onto the famous Carriage Road, and symbolized the impossible. I always thought only true legends of climbing could do it, as the sequence looked mind-boglingly hard. Working it sporadically over a few years, it still felt impossible. I thought to myself, always, that if I ever sent Karajo, I would be the best I could be… little did I expect to send it first-go of the day after 2-years of not touching it, after a great run of competition results. I had myself a good victory cry at the summit!

6. Do you have any ongoing projects that are just killing you?

I really want to finish Waiting for the Messiah Sit (V12/13), but it hurts an old injury of mine in my left wrist and elbow whenever I work it, so I don’t know if it’s worth it. Better pick a different one. I would love to get back on Drama (V12) at the Ice Pond, thats a fun problem!

7. If you never discovered climbing, what would you be doing now?

I would either be pursuing a career in acting/comedy, or trying ti survive as an artist. I also love sales, I know that sounds weird, but I love making a sale!

8. Favorite music to send to!?

Rap, specifically J. Cole, Kendrick Lamar, Biggie, or some classic hip/hop.

9. Climber that you most look up to?

Chris Sharma has always been my idol. Hes and unbelievably talented climber with an amazing outlook on the sport. His attitude and philosophy towards climbing is so easy-going and all about growing the sport, being kind to others, giving back and pushing the boundaries. I climbed with him for a week at Yo Basecamp when I was younger and also learned that he is one of the nicest people on the planet. And besides all of that, he is the strongest dude of all time!

10. Top 3 Climbing locations?

Indoor: High Exposure, Bloc Shop, Cliffs at LIC.
Outdoor: Joes Valley, Yosemite, Hueco.

11. Do you prefer pulling plastic or real rock?

I love both equally for different reasons. I hate the bad rep that people get for loving plastic, because it is virtually a different sport in so many respects and offers different things to the athlete. I am totally at peace when I am in nature, but sometimes am discouraged by the distances required to travel while my schedule is so tight with work and other commitments.

12. Why do you climb?

I climb because I have fallen in love with every aspect of the movement of the sport, the creativity, the ever-expanding diversity of challenges, the fact that unlike any other sport, the game and field is different everytime. I have pretty bad ADHD and I love that I can climb where I want, when I want during a session and don’t have to be on other people’s time clock (bouldering). I climb because I enjoy surrounding myself with the nicest and most supportive community on earth. I climb because something inside me tells me that this is what you were born to do and this is how you will be the happiest Charlie Schreiber that you can be.